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The Bridges of Madison County: A timeless Iowa love story and travel guide

Exploring Iowa's Iconic Bridges of Madison County: A Romantic Journey Through History and Hollywood

Nestled in the rolling hills of central Iowa, Madison County stands as a timeless testament to Americana, where historic covered bridges evoke a sense of nostalgia and romance. Made famous by Robert James Waller's bestselling novel "The Bridges of Madison County" and its 1995 film adaptation starring Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep, these structures have drawn visitors from around the world seeking to relive the poignant love story of Francesca Johnson and Robert Kincaid. But beyond the silver screen, the bridges offer a genuine slice of Iowa's heritage, perfect for a scenic road trip that combines history, natural beauty, and heartfelt moments. Whether you're a fan of the movie, a history buff, or simply in search of a romantic getaway, Madison County's covered bridges provide an enchanting backdrop for exploration.

The story of Madison County's bridges begins in the 19th century, when the area was a burgeoning frontier. Between 1870 and 1892, local craftsmen built 19 wooden covered bridges to span the county's rivers and streams, protecting the trusses from harsh weather and extending their lifespan. These engineering marvels were essential for farmers and travelers, allowing safe passage over waterways like the Middle River and North River. Today, only six original bridges remain, each meticulously preserved and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The county's commitment to their upkeep is evident in ongoing restoration efforts, which have saved them from decay and modern development. Visiting these bridges isn't just about sightseeing; it's about stepping back in time to an era when life moved at a slower pace, and simple structures symbolized community resilience.

At the heart of the allure is the connection to Waller's novel, which weaves a tale of forbidden love against the backdrop of these very bridges. In the story, National Geographic photographer Robert Kincaid arrives in Madison County to capture images of the covered bridges, only to embark on a passionate affair with Italian war bride Francesca Johnson. The film, directed by Eastwood, who also starred as Kincaid opposite Streep's Francesca, brought international attention to the area. Key filming locations include the Roseman Covered Bridge, where Kincaid first asks for directions, and the Holliwell Covered Bridge, featured in memorable scenes of longing and farewell. Fans of the movie often recreate these moments, posing for photos or leaving notes in the bridges' guest books, adding a layer of personal storytelling to the sites.

Let's delve into the bridges themselves, starting with the most iconic: the Roseman Covered Bridge. Built in 1883 over the Middle River, this 107-foot-long structure is perhaps the most photographed, thanks to its starring role in the film. Its red exterior and lattice truss design create a picturesque scene, especially at sunset when the light filters through the wooden slats. Visitors can walk through it, imagining Kincaid's truck rumbling across its planks. Just a short drive away is the Holliwell Covered Bridge, constructed in 1880 and spanning 122 feet over the Middle River. As the longest remaining bridge, it offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside, with wildflowers blooming along the riverbanks in spring and summer. It's a favorite spot for picnics, where couples can spread out a blanket and enjoy the serene atmosphere that mirrors the novel's introspective tone.

Not far from Holliwell stands the Cedar Covered Bridge, originally built in 1883 but rebuilt twice after arson incidents in 2002 and 2017. This 76-foot bridge over Cedar Creek exemplifies the community's dedication to preservation; it's now a symbol of resilience, with interpretive signs detailing its turbulent history. For those interested in a more forested setting, the Cutler-Donahoe Covered Bridge, dating back to 1870, resides in Winterset's City Park. At 79 feet, it's easily accessible and surrounded by walking trails, making it ideal for a leisurely stroll. The Imes Covered Bridge, the oldest at 1870, was relocated to a spot near St. Charles and measures 81 feet; its quaint charm draws antique enthusiasts who appreciate its original wooden peg construction. Finally, the Hogback Covered Bridge, built in 1884 over the North River, stretches 97 feet and is enveloped by wooded hills, offering a secluded vibe perfect for quiet reflection.

Planning a romantic road trip through Madison County is straightforward and rewarding. Start in Winterset, the county seat and birthplace of legendary actor John Wayne. The John Wayne Birthplace Museum provides a fascinating detour, showcasing memorabilia from the Duke's life. From there, pick up a free self-guided tour map at the Madison County Chamber of Commerce or download the app for GPS-guided routes. The full loop covers about 82 miles of scenic backroads, winding through farmland, prairies, and small towns. Allow at least a full day to visit all six bridges, but for a more immersive experience, stretch it over a weekend. Spring and fall are the best times to go, when wildflowers or autumn foliage enhance the landscapes, and crowds are thinner than in summer.

To infuse romance, consider packing a picnic with local Iowa specialties like fresh cheeses from nearby farms or wines from the Madison County Winery. Many bridges have adjacent parks with benches, ideal for sharing a meal while watching the river flow. For overnight stays, charming bed-and-breakfasts dot the area, such as the historic Hotel Pattee in nearby Perry or cozy inns in Winterset that offer packages inspired by the movie. Don't miss the annual Covered Bridge Festival in October, a two-day event featuring arts, crafts, live music, and bridge tours. It's a lively celebration that brings the community together, with storytelling sessions recounting the bridges' histories and the novel's impact.

Beyond the bridges, Madison County boasts other attractions that complement a road trip. The Iowa Quilt Museum in Winterset displays intricate quilts that reflect the region's agricultural roots, while the Winterset Cidery offers tastings of hard ciders made from local apples. For nature lovers, Pammel State Park provides hiking trails and fishing spots along the Middle River, extending the outdoor adventure. History enthusiasts can explore the Madison County Historical Complex, which includes a museum, one-room schoolhouse, and blacksmith shop, painting a fuller picture of 19th-century life.

What makes the Bridges of Madison County truly special is their ability to evoke emotion. In Waller's words, they represent "a place where time stands still," and indeed, standing inside one, with the creak of wood underfoot and the whisper of wind through the rafters, it's easy to feel transported. For couples, it's a reminder of fleeting connections and enduring love; for solo travelers, a space for introspection. The area's unpretentious beauty—golden cornfields, lazy rivers, and star-filled skies—contrasts with the dramatic narrative of the book and film, yet harmonizes perfectly.

In an age of fast-paced travel, Madison County's covered bridges invite a slower, more meaningful journey. They remind us that some stories, like the bridges themselves, withstand the test of time. Whether you're chasing movie magic or simply seeking solace in Iowa's heartland, this romantic road trip promises memories that linger long after the drive ends. As Francesca reflects in the novel, "In a universe of ambiguity, this kind of certainty comes only once." So, hit the road, cross those bridges, and discover your own story in Madison County.

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Read the Full Des Moines Register Article at:
[ https://www.desmoinesregister.com/story/travel/2025/07/27/bridges-of-madison-county-iowa-covered-bridges-movie-locations-romantic-road-trip/85341331007/ ]